Food

What to eat

This is high-desert Potosino food, simple and hearty, built for cold nights and pilgrims. Do not come expecting a dining scene; come expecting good, honest plates.

The regional dishes to try:

• Enchiladas potosinas — red-chile-tinted masa filled with cheese, folded and fried. The signature dish of the state and easy to find here.
• Gorditas — thick corn pockets stuffed with beans, chicharron, cheese or stews, cooked on a comal at stalls near the church.
• Tamales and atole — the classic pilgrim breakfast, warm and cheap, especially good in the cold mornings.
• Cabrito and desert stews — this is dry ranching country, so goat and slow-cooked meats show up on menus.

Where to eat

Stalls and fondas near the plaza and church. The cheapest and often the best. Gorditas, tamales and a plate of enchiladas run only a few tens of pesos (approximate). This is where guides and pilgrims eat.

Restaurants along Lanzagorta. The tourist-facing terraces do fuller sit-down meals, sometimes with a more ambitious menu and mountain views. Expect to pay noticeably more, roughly a few hundred pesos for two (approximate). Fine for a proper dinner, but the street food is the truer taste of the place.

Bakeries and coffee. Small panaderias and cafes sell pan dulce and hot drinks, exactly what you want before a cold morning walk.

Prices are approximate and the site verifies specifics separately. Bring cash; card acceptance is patchy up here.