Food

Villahermosa, Tabasco

What to eat in Villahermosa

If the city underwhelms, the food doesn’t. Tabascan cooking is river-and-jungle food, distinct from the rest of Mexico, and it’s the best reason to stay for a meal.

The dishes to try

  • Pejelagarto asado — the local gar fish, an ancient, long-snouted river fish, grilled whole and eaten with tortillas and salsa. Strange-looking, genuinely good, and the signature Tabascan dish.
  • Pozol — a cold, thick drink of fermented corn and cacao. It’s the everyday local refresher and worth trying once.
  • Tamales de chipilín and other regional tamales wrapped in local leaves.
  • Chocolate — Tabasco is cacao country, so the hot and cold chocolate here is the real thing.
  • Fresh river fish, plantains, and dishes cooked in hoja santa (a fragrant local leaf) show up everywhere.

Where to eat

  • Mercado Pino Suárez, the downtown market, is the honest starting point for grilled pejelagarto, tamales, and pozol at stall prices. Cheap, a few dollars a plate.
  • Sit-down regional restaurants downtown and near the Malecón do fuller Tabascan menus in air conditioning, mid-range prices, roughly a moderate restaurant tab per person.
  • Cocinas económicas away from the tourist strip serve set lunches for a handful of dollars.

Approximate only, prices shift. What a local would tell you: skip the fancy riverfront tables, eat pejelagarto at the market, and finish with a cold chocolate to survive the heat.