Getting to Catemaco
Catemaco sits in the far south of Veracruz, inland from the Gulf and off the main coastal highway. There is no airport in town, so you arrive by bus or by car after flying into the coast.
By air, then land. The nearest airport is Veracruz (VER), roughly a 2.5 to 3 hour drive south (approximate). Minatitlán (MTT), to the east near Coatzacoalcos, is a similar distance and sometimes cheaper on flights. Neither has a useful direct shuttle to Catemaco, so plan to continue by ADO bus or rental car. If you are flying in specifically for Los Tuxtlas, renting a car at the airport is the move, because the best nature sits outside town.
By bus. ADO runs first-class, air-conditioned buses to Catemaco, and this is the comfortable default if you are not driving. From Veracruz city expect around 3 hours (approximate); connections also run through San Andrés Tuxtla, the regional hub 20 minutes away, so you may transfer there. From Mexico City it is a long overnight haul of roughly 8 to 10 hours (approximate), usually via ADO or its premium GL service. Book ahead in the first week of March, when the brujo ceremony fills seats. The ADO terminal in Catemaco is a short, cheap taxi ride from the malecón. Confirm current times and fares on the ADO site rather than trusting these ranges.
By car. Driving is the way to actually enjoy the region. From Veracruz you run south on Highway 180 along the coast, then turn inland through Santiago Tuxtla and San Andrés Tuxtla before dropping down to the lake. The road is paved and fine, but the last inland stretch is hilly, winding, and prone to fog and heavy rain, especially in the wet months. Drive it in daylight. The curves through Los Tuxtlas are the kind that get to anyone prone to motion sickness, so sit up front and go easy on the big meal beforehand.
Getting around once you are there
The town is walkable. From the malecón to the market to the plaza is a few minutes on foot, and you rarely need wheels inside Catemaco itself.
For the lake, hire a lancha. Boats are arranged directly with the lancheros at the waterfront, priced per boat rather than per person, so a group splits the cost. Settle the route and price before boarding.
For anything farther out, you need a vehicle. The coast at Sontecomapan and Montepío, the Eyipantla waterfall near San Andrés, and Nanciyaga on the eastern shore are all beyond walking range. Options are a rental car, a taxi hired for the half-day or day, or a local guided tour.
Colectivos and taxis handle short regional hops cheaply, running between Catemaco and San Andrés Tuxtla regularly during the day. They thin out after dark, so do not count on catching one late. There are no ride-hailing apps worth relying on here; taxis are hailed on the street or called from your hotel. Agree the fare before you get in, since meters are not the norm.