Where locals go

Tlacotalpan, Veracruz

Where locals actually go

Tlacotalpan is small enough that locals and visitors mostly share the same streets, but there is still a difference between the postcard spots and where people who live here spend a normal day.

Eating and drinking

Residents eat river fish and seafood, and they do it at the unfussy family spots a block or two off the main plaza rather than the most photographed corner. Look for the loncherías and comedores where the menu is short and the tables fill with locals at lunch. For a drink, the low-key cantinas and porch bars near the center are where people gather, especially when a son jarocho group is playing.

A day off by the river

On a hot afternoon locals head to the riverfront to sit in the shade, let the kids run, and watch the boats. The malecón and the shaded benches near the water are the real living room of the town.

The rhythm to copy

The most local thing you can do is slow down: a long lunch, a coffee on a plaza, a wander in the late afternoon when the heat breaks and neighbors come out to sit on their porches. A friend here would tell you the porches themselves are the social life. Nod, say buenas tardes, and you are doing it right. Weekends and any festival day are when the town comes alive with music.