San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende is a colonial city in the highlands of Guanajuato, built around a pink neo-Gothic church and a grid of cobbled streets that has kept its 18th-century look almost intact. That preservation earned it UNESCO status, and it is the reason people come.

The honest verdict

It is worth it, with your eyes open. The town really is beautiful and easy to walk, and the light on those stone facades earns the reputation. But San Miguel has been discovered many times over, and it shows. A large American and Canadian community lives here, many menus and prices are set in dollars, and the center can feel more like an upscale resort than a Mexican town. If you arrive expecting cheap and gritty, you will be annoyed. If you take it for what it is now, an easy, pretty, well-fed few days, it delivers.

Getting oriented

The town is compact and centered on El Jardín, the main plaza in front of the Parroquia church. Most of what you want is within a 15-minute walk of that square, though the hills and cobbles make it feel longer. The streets are steep in places, so pack real shoes. Plan on about 3 days; that is enough to walk the center, eat well, catch a rooftop sunset and do one day trip without rushing.

Come in spring (March and April) or fall (October and November) for warm, dry, comfortable days. Skip July and August if you can, when the afternoon rains hit. Day of the Dead and December are the marquee dates and get packed, so book far ahead if you want them.

How we would play it

Base yourself in or just off Centro so you can walk everywhere. Give mornings to the streets and markets before the day-trippers arrive, take the heat of the afternoon slow, and save rooftops for sunset when the church lights up. Budget in dollars, not pesos, and you will not be caught off guard.